Welcome to Kabul

I arrived in Kabul on November 1, and have spent the last two weeks adjusting to my new circumstances. It is now Eid al-Adha, so the whole city is in hibernation. My job is keeping me only half-busy since, though New York remains active, everyone in Kabul is enjoying the holiday.

When I was leaving New York, it seemed what I was mostly worried about was missing loved ones and being overwhelmed by the job. What everyone else seemed to be worried about, was my security. However, Kabul feels really very safe. I have been told that Kandahar feels like Baghdad a few years ago, but Kabul is this dusty (so dusty), smelly, tumultuous city, packed full of people getting shit done against all odds and in spite of the government and foreign donors.

Strolling around here is just as stimulating as walking around the most obnoxiously touristy spots in Manhattan. People and cars pack the streets here without concern for rules or personal space. Transactions of all types happen in the middle of the street, in the gullies that serve as the sewer system, on the bustling sidewalks, and in the clean, modern stores. Anything and everything seems to be available, whether one is looking for luxury leather goods, electronics, roasted seeds, fresh squeezed juice, clothes, roasted meats, motorcycles, toilets, or mobile cards. Everything hangs out, spilling into your path and demanding your attention.

Although, a few days ago, there was a spate of attacks around the country, including one in Kabul (admittedly, a pretty loud blast), the sheer number of police and soldiers in the streets and the fearless attitude of Kabul residents makes it difficult to feel anything but safe. Also, looking the way I look and with the benefit of speaking the language, I go about my business without any real trepidation.